12/1/2023 0 Comments Whole house fan isolator box![]() i've seen it happen where the fan got installed into a small vent or ventless attic and didn't work right or not at all. Oh, make sure that you have sufficient attic venting or the fan will make more noise than it should and won't push the air that it should also. and the arc fault breaker should be the same brand as your circuit panel. if you have to run a new circuit the code is that the circuit be arc fault type. you can get by with a existing bedroom circuit if it takes 4 amps but if it takes 7 or 8 amps depending on the circuits existing load you might have to run a new circuit. as far as circuitry for that fan, depending on the size it is, as in the amount of air that it pushes, will take anywhere from 4 to 8 amps. and as you know the fan blade makes enough noise that you wouldn't here the motor if it was humming. there is nothing you can do if the fan has a vibration or hum. do this on both size of the cut joist and nail the cut joist to the cross pieces you just put in. nail to those two joists with a double piece of 2 by what ever size the joists are 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 or 2 x 10. then use the same size lumber as to go from the the joist on either side of the cut one. cutting one joist won't be any support problem. It would all be local so no internet needed.The way that i've seen them done is cut the joist. I was going to automate the fan based on humidity in the toilet. ![]() Playing with automation and tech is a hobby, no need to patronise, I was just asking for some advice. It's very annoying and not needed all the time and a waste of electricity too. I'm not sure I'd be able to put a 2 gang switch there without running extra wiring within the wall and not sure something I could DIY?īeing able to turn the light on without the fan on is exactly what I'm after as you've described. The toilet light switch outside just has one cable running to it with the red, black and earth. I presume you mean I could replace the isolator switch with a 2 gang switch? The isolator switch pictured above is located above the bathroom door frame, so not really an easily accessible place. ![]() Thanks in advance for your assistance, it is much appreciated!!! I haven't really used any puck type device in the past, mostly these relays and smart wall switches so far. I also already have some of these lying around and wondering whether something like this would work at all. I was just looking for any advice on best way of making this smart? Presumably, a smart switch placed within the box would work, but I'm uncertain as to how the wiring would be and whether I need a no neutral one (like this ) or one with a neutral like this this I'm not entirely certain what I am looking at with the wiring. I opened the isolator switch open and here is a pic : So that I could turn the lights on without the fan turning on (its an en-suite and the fan is really loud ) and keep the fan on if the humidity was high. ![]() I'd like to additionally have some kind of smart control on the fan too. I have already replaced the toilet wall light switch with a smart no neutral wall switch which lets me control the light and fan. I have noticed that there is an "isolator" switch located just above the bathroom door. The fan turns on a few seconds after you turn on the light switch and turns itself off a few minutes after the light is switched off.
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