12/3/2023 0 Comments Emuge tap drill chart![]() Make sure it compresses and extends, and snaps back properly, but it's not too hard to push past the detent position. When I run a 1/2-13, I crank it back down- that tap is a lot harder to get started.Ĭheck the functionality of the tapping head. When I run the #4 tap on mine, I back way off the hard start. But not so firm that it snaps the tap, rather than extending past the detent on reversal. Reason is- form taps don't self-start, and the hard start on the tapping head has to be firm enough for the tap to start. I can't read it clearly, but in your pic it looks like that one is designed for #2 or M2 and larger? Yours is different than mine, and I don't know how it works. It's a tension/compression/releasing tapping head. G4U.3(dwell to make sure the tap is out of the hole) (Machine and rpm dependent)Ĭlick to expand.I don't have rigid tapping on my lathe. G32Z-.100F.0416M4(reverse spindle and z at the same time) This is the threading cycle that i use for a 10-24 thread This would be to make sure you don't push the tap in damaging the threads and on the way out to keep it from crushing the thread on the way out Going out should be about 100-110% of the pitch. The feed into the part should be made at 80-90% of the pitch going in. You will need a floating tap collet/ tool holder 052 drill (94% thread)is getting very close to 100% thread which is not good for form threadingĪ 1.35mm drill would give you about 70% thread if neededįrom your code you are not rigid tapping this is a problem with the spindle and tap not being sync'ed up to make a good tapped hole with a Tapmatic rigid tapping adaptors ![]() Hey, you don't have to take pictures in landscape anymore!įirst thing i would do is to get a larger drill the #54 (.055 dia.) will give you about 60% thread the. So maybe just a M08G4U1M09 is all we need but I wanted to see if anyone saw anything else we are obviously doing wrong Also, the guys I work with are confident that if they put a drop of tap magic on the tap before each part it will last forever. They also said we should use some coolant of some sort so we will try putting on a temporary M08 with oil prior to tapping but I am not all that hopeful.ĭo you guys have any ideas? Sometimes there is a little flake of material on the tap after tapping.I wouldn't think should be there. We stepped up to S750 and it broke on the first one. I called OSG and they said the RPMS were way too low. (See attached pic) We're using one of those Tapmatic rigid tapping adaptors but maybe that's not enough float? G32Z.05F.011 (this has been changed too F.012 and F.0125 for some reason) (My chart says #54 for a form tap so maybe there's something there.) ![]() Tap Drill - #55 all the way through the part plus a little deeper than the cutoff so the drill mark is still into the next part. Tap - OSG Hy-Pro Tin coated 0-80 Form Tap Material - 5/32" diameter 360 1/2 hard brass Machine - late 90's Hardinge GT Super Precision I have very little personal experience with this particular process, but the guys I work with have been complaining about tapping this 0-80 hole because the tap life is so variable (i.e.
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